Alpha-Arbutin

Alpha-arbutin is a plant-derived or synthetic ingredient that helps to brighten, fade discolorations, protect skin from oxidative stress and promote a more even skin tone. It is made from hydroquinone and the alpha form of the sugar molecule, glucose. Its mechanism of action on skin isn’t fully understood; however, it’s believed to work by interrupting or limiting the ability of an enzyme in skin (known as tyrosinase) from making too much melanin. This in turn helps reduce the size and appearance of surface discolorations. As an antioxidant, alpha-arbutin can help neutralize skin-damaging free radicals and also help boost skin’s natural antioxidant defenses. It was once thought that alpha-arbutin works because it breaks down to hydroquinone on skin, but now we know that the amount of hydroquinone produced from alpha-arbutin is likely too low to play a role in its discoloration-fading benefits. Interestingly, it seems microorganisms on skin’s surface and/or exposure to UV light are the triggers that release some of the hydroquinone used to create alpha-arbutin. Research has shown that alpha-arbutin works synergistically with other proven ingredients to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, including tranexamic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and retinaldehyde (retinal). Typical usage levels of alpha-arbutin in skin care range from 0.4–5%, although cosmetic ingredient reviews boards recommend a maximum usage level of 2% in leave-on products as being safe. Alpha-arbutin may be produced via fermentation of soybeans. Plants such as mulberry are typical sources of beta-arbutin, which isn’t considered as effective as the synthesized alpha form.

Related ingredients: Arbutin Kojic Acid