Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media

According to the Personal Care Products Council, human fibroblast conditioned media (HFCM) is a cosmetic ingredient derived from “cultures of human fibroblasts after several days of growth.” The secretions produced during this process can be harnessed as growth factors and exosomes in skin care, which facilitate skin rejuvenation in a variety of ways. (Growth factors are cell-signaling polypeptides associated with skin’s natural repair mechanisms and exosomes deliver vital substances that support skin’s extracellular matrix.) That said, there are some considerations to take into account when it comes to HFCM, as we’ll explain below. Skin care products containing HFCM started making headlines in the early 2000s with claims focusing on collagen support and prejuvenation (preventative aging). Since then, numerous clinical trials have shown benefits for concerns such as wrinkles, skin laxity, texture issues, and uneven tone. While some of the studies on HFCM present conflicts of interest due to the companies funding them, the findings are still promising (although, we’d love to see additional independent studies to validate). A recent 2024 study funded by Allergan Aesthetics found that HFCM helped reduce downtime and recovery from in-office cosmetic procedures while enhancing overall results. Other studies have similarly shown that HFCM promotes an expedited skin recovery response. As the name _human_ fibroblast conditioned media suggests, these fibroblasts are cultivated from human skin tissue samples. Some studies mention obtaining samples from “redundant skin tissue” as a byproduct from consenting patients undergoing surgeries. Other studies call out obtaining them from a “healthy newborn donor” or “neonatal foreskin,” which is deemed controversial by some. Not surprisingly, this presents a wide range of variability in the composition and concentration of the beneficial secreted substances within HFCM based on differing donor sources, culture conditions, and other lab factors, making it challenging to definitively assess the efficacy of HFCM. It should also be noted that topical formulations may face challenges with skin penetration, although new methodologies are constantly being developed and studied to overcome this. While human fibroblast conditioned media is permitted for cosmetic use in the US, it is restricted in some other countries. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has not yet provided a safety assessment of this ingredient. Outside of skin care, research is ongoing to study medical applications for HFCM. Bottom line: While HFCM offers a fascinating approach to anti-aging skin care and we see the potential for greatness, it’s still a bit of the “wild west” in terms of safety, stability and standardized results. Some may also take issue with ethical concerns over how HFCM is derived.

Related ingredients: Growth Factors Exosomes