Lye

Average

Irritant

No known benefits

Lye at a glance

  • Highly alkaline ingredient
  • Used in small amounts in cosmetics (such as in exfoliants and cleansers) to adjust pH
  • Also used in hair and nail products to maintain pH
  • Called sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide

Lye description

Lye is a term for a highly alkaline chemical compound known scientifically as sodium hydroxide. Also called caustic soda, sodium hydroxide is an ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to adjust the pH of a cosmetic formula. Lye is also in reference to potassium hydroxide when used in liquid formulas such as soaps. Its used as a pH adjuster is seen particularly in products such as cleansers and in leave-on exfoliants, where the product’s pH needs to be held within a very specific range for maximum efficacy (between 3-4 is ideal for acid-based exfoliants, while cleansers are generally pH 4.5-6). Pure lye’s pH level is 13, but in cosmetics, it is only used up to pH 11. Lye is seen in many applications in beauty products, such as nail cuticle solvents and hair straighteners, where it’s used in greater amounts (between 2% and 5% concentrations by weight) than in leave-on skincare products or makeup (for example, some lipsticks contain 0.25% sodium hydroxide). It’s also used as a cleansing and denaturing agent. It’s a significant skin sensitizer in concentrations of 10% or greater. Much lower amounts are used in solution to pH control leave-on, acid-based exfoliants.

Lye references

  • International Journal of Toxicology, October 2021, pages 16S-35S
  • International Journal of Trichology, January-March 2015, pages 2-15
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2010, Volume 9, Issue 3, pages 174-184
  • Acta dermato-venereologica, March 1995, pages 97-101

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.

Ingredient ratings

Best

Proven and supported by independent studies. Outstanding active ingredient for most skin types or concerns.

Good

Necessary to improve a formula's texture, stability, or penetration.

Average

Generally non-irritating but may have aesthetic, stability, or other issues that limit its usefulness.

Bad

There is a likelihood of irritation. Risk increases when combined with other problematic ingredients.

Worst

May cause irritation, inflammation, dryness, etc. May offer benefit in some capability but overall, proven to do more harm than good.

unknown

We couldn't find this in our ingredient dictionary. We log all missing ingredients and make continuous updates.

Not rated

We have not yet rated this ingredient because we have not had a chance to review the research on it.