Protease

Excellent

Exfoliant

Protease at a glance

  • Name for a diverse group of enzymes
  • Found in animals, plants, bacteria, and fungi
  • Break down proteins and peptides
  • Help skin shed old and damaged tissue

Protease description

Protease is perhaps better known by its plural form proteases or as proteolytic enzymes. The name protease covers a large number of enzymes that break down proteins and peptides into shorter peptides or amino acids. These enzymes are made by plants, animals, fungi, and bacteria. In the human body proteases function to inhibit the function of certain proteins, break down inactive proteins into active peptides, and serve as an agent to kickstart certain biological processes. In the world of dermatology, proteases have been used in cleansers to remove “dirt” proteins (as in the proteins naturally found in soil) from skin. In leave-on formulations, proteases can help remove old, dead skin cells to reduce skin flaking and help moisturizers work better to restore skin’s barrier, particularly if it’s naturally deficient in the proteins that help keep it strong. In essence, proteases help skin’s surface with the natural process of desquamation – also known as exfoliation. Extensive research has not been conducted yet showing how effective proteases are in direct comparison to “chemical” exfoliates such as AHAs and BHA. Still, these ingredients are helpful in maintaining skin’s normal balance, which is always a good thing. Rather than replacing chemical exfoliants, using products with proteases can help boost their skin-renewing properties.

Protease references

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, August 2022, pages 3,300-3,307
  • Molecular Medicine Reports, August 2013, pages 551–556
  • Journal of Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, June 2013, pages 14–22
  • Journal of Biological Chemistry, November 2008, pages 30,433–30,437
  • Dermatologic Surgery, February 2005, pages 139-148

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.

Évaluation des ingrédients

Excellent

Ingrédient dont l’efficacité est prouvée et basée sur des études cliniques indépendantes. Un actif exceptionnel pour la plupart des types de peau ou problématiques cutanées.

Bon

Ingrédient nécessaire pour améliorer la texture, la stabilité ou la pénétration de la formule.

Moyen

Généralement non irritant, mais peut présenter des problèmes esthétiques, de stabilité ou autres qui limitent son utilité.

Mauvais

Un risque d'irritation est possible. Ce risque augmente lorsqu'il est associé à d'autres ingrédients problématiques.

Très mauvais

Peut provoquer irritations, inflammations, sécheresse, etc. Peut présenter un certain intérêt, mais s'avère globalement plus nocif que bénéfique.

Inconnu

Nous n’avons pas trouvé cet ingrédient dans notre base de données. Nous enregistrons les ingrédients manquants et mettons régulièrement notre base à jour.

Non évalué

Nous n'avons pas encore évalué cet ingrédient car nous n'avons pas eu l'occasion d'examiner les recherches le concernant.